Vietnam - Day 11 Hoi An

Today is Liberation Day in Vietnam and it is 36 years since the North and South were reunified (and they kicked those nasty Americans out).

However it was very low key in Hoi An. The best they could muster was a cluster of the national flags down some of the streets.  They could take a leaf out of Australia's book. We know how to celebrate Australia Day properly - family bbq's, beer, Cold Chisel, beer, fireworks, beer, brawl, beer, lift home in the back of a paddy wagon (or ambulance). Now that's Australia!

It seems our holiday is centering around shopping and food. Brynley found this Vietnam hat. Unfortunately it looked better on Lisa so she has claimed it now.

The only tourist site we took in was the Japanese Covered Bridge. It is a bridge made by the Japanese and is covered. What else did you want to know?

It is a popular spot for wedding photographs.

This groom tried to race his bride down a little alley way for a smooch however Tia was too quick and chased after them to take this photo. It was just as well it was Tia - he would have told us to bugger off if it was Lisa or Brynley.

We had a fantastic lunch at Cargo's which overlooked the river with all the local farmers taking their goods to the market. I know this old lady appreciated our encouragement to "put her back into it" as she looked like she was starting to slow down a bit.

We then de-stressed by the pool at the hotel.
Can you guess which drink is Brynley's? If you said the one with cute umbrella thing you would be right.

Finally we picked up the last of our shopping from the tailors and cobblers (Jordan's 2nd shirt, Lisa's dress, Brynley's 2nd suit with extra pants, Jordan's Vans shoes and Tia's gladiator sandals). Now that our orders have been completed the tailors should be able to get some sleep tonight and why not - it is Liberation Day after all.

Dinner was at Morning Glory Restaurant again. The food was spectacular (but we all agreed it was not as good as what we cooked ourselves in the cooking class).

Vietnam - Day 10 Hoi An

It was one of our best days today.

We did a Vietnamese cooking course run by Ms Vy who owns 4 or 5 restaurants in Hoi An.

First they took us through the market in small groups to buy some of the food. She explained all the Vietnamese fruit, vegetables, herbs and spices. It is a whole new world!!

Much of the produce was new to us. However it wasn't difficult to work out what these were.

If ever you need advice on buying fish head for cooking stock, we are now experts. You never know when it may come in handy!

Upstairs in one of her restaurants, Morning Glory (named after the herb and not crumpet that you may be lucky to have in the morning) she has a full kitchen set up for 20 students.

We made Shrimp in Cabbage Parcel Soup, BBQ Chicken with Lime Leaf, Crispy Hoi An Pancakes and Mango Salad. The titles may not be interesting but the food and the experience was world class. The children did really well (considering Jordan has never graduated beyond cheesy pasta and 2 minute noodles before).

Best of all we got to eat it all for lunch. It has inspired Brynley to do a Vietnamese cooking course when he gets home to Perth. We highly recommend this cooking course to anybody going to Vietnam.


After an afternoon dip in the pool we returned to the tailors from yesterday for our fittings. Everything fitted like a glove except Lisa's dress which needed a slight alteration. Apparently they are waiting for the circus in town to finish with their big top to get some extra material.

Brynley was so impressed with his suit with extra pair of pants and blazer that he decided to order another suit and extra pair of pants. He can go to bed comfortable in the knowledge that some poor local tailor will be burning the midnight oil to have it ready tomorrow while he has a decent night's kip. Jordan also got another flannie so he can become the complete bogan.

This is Jordan and Tia showing off their new clothes on the main bridge with the giant Chinese lanterns in the background.

Vietnam - Day 9 Nha Trang to Hoi An

Today we said goodbye to Nha Trang and made our way further up the coast to Hoi An. This involved about 4 hours sitting in taxis, airports and turbo prop planes.

Hoi An was used as the main central port by the French so it has a lot of French influence. The old town precinct is heritage listed by UNESCO. Traffic in this part is banned. BLISS.

Our first stop was at the Tam Tam Cafe to stock up on some sustenance (coffee and French cake).

We then explored more of the old town. These old biddies look like they are working hard. Their loads are heavy from all the money they were getting from posing with the tourists. However got to give them credit where credit is due.

We also checked out some of the tailors in town. Hoi An is famous for its cheap and quick tailors. We found one tailor and the whole family has been measured up for garments. Lisa and Tia are getting dresses. Jordan is getting a flannie/shirt. Brynley has cut loose and is getting a pin stripe suit with extra pants and a casual jacket.

They should be ready by Saturday night. Good to see communism working so well.

Vietnam - Day 8 Nha Trang

We had a DIRTY day today.

The main attraction was the mud baths at Nha Trang Thap Ba Mud Baths.

First we squeezed into our 4 man bath tub filled with hot creamy mud. There were lots of giggles and laughter as we proceeded to dump each other in the mud and stick toes in certain places. There were some suspicious bubbles coming from Tia's corner of the tub. However Tia said it was merely the naturally occurring sulphur in the mud oxidising and rising to the surface. We had to believe her because it certainly smelt like sulphur!

After 30 minutes we got out and let the mud dry so we resembled baby hippo's baking in the Tanzanian sun.

It took the spray of high pressure showers to get most of the mud off. We then went between the jet spray walls which managed to get out the mud that was still caught in difficult nooks and crannies.

To finish it off we spent 30 minutes in another 4 man tub this time filled with hot (and I mean HOT!!) mineral water. Very refreshing but felt a bit like a prawn in a saucepan. In fact Lisa and Jordan looked like prawns in a saucepan with their sunburn.

It was at this point we realised we had become victims of Vietnam's notorious petty crime. Somebody had stolen one of the towels that we had paid a deposit on. Brynley reported it to a nearby guard who showed diffidence and a little contempt for our distressing position. Outraged by the lack of integrity and widespread corruption ingrained into the system Brynley did what any upright and responsible accountant would do when faced with losing his deposit - he stole somebody else's towel.

The pool at the mud baths was as hot as the boiling mineral baths so we decided to luxuriate at the Louisiane Brew House.

This microbrewery is on the beach with great views and serves tasty Pho and unique beers.

It also has a great pool.

It was difficult to choose somewhere for dinner tonight. All the restaurants on the main street looked the same same but different. Except for this one - it was actually called Same Same But Different.. So we ate there. Good Pad Thai.

Vietnam - Day 7 Nha Trang

CLOSE YOUR EYES. I want you to draw a picture in your mind!

Imagine a beach of white sand and glistening water as far as the eye can see, like Surfers Paradise.
Imagine dark threatening mountains looming behind you, like in New Zealand or South Africa.
Imagine thatched umbrellas and lounge chairs to snooze the day away.
Imagine a personal waiter at your beck and call ready to bring you beers at $1 each.
Imagine coconuts washing up on the sand.
Imagine fat Russians in their thongs, with their bellies and breasts hanging out, bending over in front of you (er ... no scrap that).


You now have beautiful Nha Trang.

This Vietnamese Riviera was founded by the French when they ruled Indochina. The American GI's flocked here on their R&R leave during the Vietnam war. The place has now been conquered by the Russians for some reason. Most signs are in Vietnamese and in Russian. Most towels on the lounge chairs are Russian.

Today we laid out front on the beach all day just chillaxing (and in Lisa and Jordan's case sunburning as well).

After such a stressful day Lisa and Tia had to unwind with a manicure and a pedicure before dinner. Brynley and Jordan unwound with a beer or two (and coke) at a local bar.

Finally, we had dinner at a local authentic Vietnamese restaurant. We knew it was an authentic Vietnamese restaurant because it said so on the sign outside (in English).

Vietnam - Day 6 Saigon (Ho Chi Min City) to Nha Trang

It was with great sadness that we left Saigon today. It has been an excellent city to experience - great food, shopping and sights. Highly recommended.

The traffic is its downfall. Here are some GOLDEN RULES to cope with the traffic:

1. Always give way to anything bigger than you (trucks rule, then cars, then motorbikes, then pedlo's - pedestrians are at the bottom of the food chain). Try to drive a Sherman tank if you can.
2. Turn right (the equivalent of our left turn) anytime you want preferably at great speed and without looking.
3. Turn left (the equivalent of our right turn) anytime you want -just do it slowly and don't worry about oncoming traffic. Just blow your horn.
4. A one way sign merely indicates the direction that most of the traffic is travelling
5. If your side of the road is too busy feel free to drive on the wrong side against the traffic as long as you use your horn
6. If both sides of the road are too busy feel free to use the footpath as long as you use your horn
7. Anything can be delivered on the back of a motorbike - and I mean anything.
8. If in doubt - use your horn
9. If you are a pedestrian - don't wear your best underwear.

You do get used to the traffic. It is organised chaos.

We started this morning with French pastries and Vietnamese ice cream again.

Then spent the next 3 hours hanging around the domestic airport on our way to Nha Trang. BORING!

Some guy got this fish bubble wrapped so he could take it on the plane as hand luggage. It sat out in the open air for a couple of hours. Mind you it couldn't have smelt any worse than the toilets on the plane.

This is the view from our balconies in the hotel. Can't wait to get down to the beach tomorrow.

Seafood is the specialty here, being a seaside resort. We found a great seafood restaurant nearby. Brynley had some grilled spiced and salted squid that was out of this world. Jordan had garlic tiger prawns. Lisa had a delicacy called "Pina Colada".

Obviously the wages here are quite low. Our waitresses were still saving up to buy the rest of their dresses.

Vietnam - Day 5 Saigon (Ho Chi Min City)

It has been a few busy days in Saigon.

We started today feeling as knackered as this guy. Unfortunately there was no rest for us.

We decided to give the Ben Thanh Markets another try.  Jordan and Tia really got into it (hats and clothes).  Lisa cornered the market on handbags (and we all know she needs more handbags!).  Brynley was back to his miserable best when bartering with the stall holders. (Typical accountant - he reckons it is the thrill of the chase but the reality is that he is just a tight ass).

Next was coffee and cake overlooking the park and people outside Reunification Palace.

There is lots of canoodling in the parks. I guess it's a bit hard to canoodle at home when you have got 20 families living in one room.

We then went to the famous Saigon Notre Dame church nearby. It is a popular spot for wedding photos. This couple are looking back to see who yelled out "Don't do it" just as this photo was being taken. It sounded very much like Lisa.

Tia wanted to to take the opportunity to get Reconciliation out of the way.  She lost interest when the priest could speak English (figured she could get away with a couple of Hail Mary's for her sins from a priest wouldn't speak English).

We then went to the Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theatre to watch a typical Vietnamese puppet show in the water. Very clever and entertaining. If only we knew what it was about.

We finished the night off with a fantastic dinner at the Quan An Ngon Restaurant.  Loads of good food and local Saigon Beer.

We must admit we felt like doing this on the way home after another busy day.

Vietnam - Day 4 Saigon (Ho Chi Min City)

It was a very tiring and hectic day today. We visited Cholon which is the largest Chinatown outside China.

We thought it would be a good idea to start with breakfast there. Hey, how hard can it be! Nobody spoke English and most things were in Chinese not Vietnamese. We ordered blind but seemed to do quite well.

First stop was the herb and medicinal street. Lisa wasn't sure what these things actually were let alone what they cured. Brynley thought they may be suppositories.

We then visited the Thien Hau Pagoda Temple and Quann Am Pagoda Temple.

We all lit some incense and said some special prayers for our families and friends all over the world. (if you win Lotto next week, remember us).

Others were a bit more selfish and said a prayer for their lunch (this pig wasn't so lucky).

This worshiper obviously had a special wish as she has a direct line to God. Now that's my kind of religion.

We then went to the Binh Thay Markets. It was so chaotic and hot it was unbearable. Lisa has traveled throughout China and we have gone toe to toe in the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul but nothing beats this. It was too much and we just had to get out.

We stopped in an Aussie pub for lunch, Phattys, and had a few ales while watching the AFL.

In Saigon some shopkeepers take it very easy.

Wile others work very hard! This guy took off without tying any of it down.

Vietnam - Day 3 Saigon (Ho Chi Min City)

When North Vietnam liberated South Vietnam from the Americans they also liberated them from facebook. FACEBOOK IS BANNED IN VIETNAM. Brynley has to VPN back to his office in Perth and run it on one of the servers to post the blog.

We started the morning early with French pastries from the local patisserie as we had a 90 minute journey to the Cu Chi Tunnels about 60 kms north of Saigon. Watching the Saigon traffic on the way out was very entertaining.

This is the equivalent of the Australian one tonne ute. In his spare time the rider also does wheelies (often unplanned).

The tunnels were built by the Viet Cong to hide during the day and attack the Americans by night. They are very small and narrow.

They were built to be used by people who live on 2 grains of rice a day - not by "happy and contented" westerners like"Brynley". He was relieved to see bigger (and fatter) blokes on the bus and maybe the two tubs of Vaseline and a lot of pushing and pulling wouldn't be required.

He did get scared though when he saw this girl struggle to get through (see video). No wonder the Americans couldn't find them.

 Jordan and Tia had no problems and did two sections (40m in total).

Brynley and Lisa did the standard (20m) and decided not to press their luck any further.

 They had a rifle range where you could fire machine guns (M16's etc) for $1 a bullet. It got a bit loud for Tia.

However Jordan & Tia did manage to capture a tank.

We were very tired in the end and had lunch in the late afternoon. There is only one thing we could have eaten for dinner - Vietnamese ice cream. Yum.

Our alternative was this little cafe but we couldn't quite get over the name!